Life, freedom, health and responsability
Since the day I started this trip I didn’t feel real restrictions or limitations of my personal freedom, neither in moving freely, nor in fulfilling my needs of social interaction, connection and exchange. I did have to make a PCR-test to cross the border from Montenegro to Bosnia, but to me it seems that this is more of a new way of generating income than really wanting and believing in our ability to control the situation. Of course, politicians impose measures and rules, because this is the only thing they can, this is their profile. People still believing in politics might expect them to do something, if it is really useful or not is secondary. I think all measures and restrictions are foremostly demonstrations of power and a desperate try to hold on to power, to keep up the illusion of control, to try to avoid changing the status quo and acting to cover helplessnes and shame. Or is there any politician who steps infront of the camera telling us, that this is a long needed global wake-up call to make us change our ways of living together and chasing after wealth and status, instead of caring for each other and our environment? We didin’t manage to come up with ideas on how to strengthen love, dignity, equality, freedom, personal and spiritual growth, we invested all our time, energy and ressources of any kind in technology and competition. So what should one really feel ashamed of? That a global phenomenon, in this case a virus, spreads and reminds us of what really matters in life, without our possibility to censor it somehow? Or that it had to come to the point, that we need to be reminded, because we forgot the basic and most valuable aspects of humanity? Isn’t there more reason to feel ashamed for the fact, that for decades climate change was ignored and nothing was done to avoid a global ecological change, that will cost far more lifes than covid does? And that our global economy never stopped exploiting, undermining and keeping slavery alive? Isn’t it far more shameful that the war in Syria is causing death and people loosing everything in life, for 10 years now!? The intriguinig mind says one should not just watch Corona and let things happen, but act somehow, pretend to have answers or ways to fight the current challenge, because it’s a chance to sell it as success. It could be a relatively easy gain in credibility and power. I’m glad if it is not, and I hope people wake up and see what this is all about. There is no such thing as success following a fight, not even after a fight against a virus. It will take its course, unimpressed by any measures and restrictions politicians impose on people. Still, if we once get to that point, they will try to sell it to us as their victory. But until then, it almost seems like politics are fighting life itself and sacrificing it to win against death. Isn’t that absurd?
I am very happy I chose to leave Germany before the second lock-down-driven period started. Here in Bosnia it is possible to live a normal daily life, free, self-responsible, aware of what is happening, but not scared to death or overruled by unconscious politicians. Conversations are not dominated by Corona-news and although tourism and other industries suffer from it, it doesn’t seem, that people see the end of their very existence close by. When one door closes another one opens up. Isn’t it encouraging, that this is a possible way, too!? That people continue living in freedom, without that massive death numbers are reached, without that the health system collapses or panic spreads. There is room for personal precaution, but also for social interaction and, most important, for mental health.
Corona is a wake-up call and politicians in Germany, Austria and other countries try to avoid it to be heard. It will go on like this, until the last one refusing to listen will hear the call.
The route / my current idea of it (Oct. 2020)
I’m heading south-east. After Austria I passed Slovenia. Due to pouring rain that day I just had a quick stopp in Maribor for lunch and then went on to Zagreb, my first visit in Croatia.
My idea is to follow the adriatic coast all the way to Albania, then head east to Kosovo and Northern Mazedonia, down to Greece and to leave the European continent by crossing the Bosporus in Instanbul. I wish to spend much of my time in nature, by the sea, in the mountains and forests, on islands and in deserts. I am also interested in visiting the cities and getting an insight to culture and history, but for me no experience is as impressive and lasting as experiencing nature. It is a way of diving into an almost forgotten life before now and into the feelings connected to it. Experiencing nature, especially forests and mountains, is my favorite way of getting closer to myself. It also means gaining distance to all the comfort I am used to in daily life and which distracts me easily from what could be heard inside of me.
As I don’t always know where I can and want to be this autumn and winter I’m not really planning ahead. I am still in the process of finding a rhythm and some elements that make a routine, just enough not to feel lost and not to limit myself.
Travelling in times of Corona
It is 19:15 and it is really quiet outside. Besides the fact, that it is winter after all and even the low season of tourism is over, there is this other beast of silence creeping trough usually even buzzing old towns. This is how travelling in times of Corona looks like.
Croatia
In the beginning I didn’t feel much difference in travelling and moving around besides minor limitation of closed restaurants and the usual precautions we are already used to. In Zagreb and Split I could find food and drinks til late in the evening and there were even Theater-performances, but in towns that live mainly in summer and mostly from tourism, along the beaches and on Islands I had to get used to the fact, that finding something to eat required research and sometimes long walks or rides. At tourist destinations allover Dalmatia nearly all restaurants or Konobas (restaurants with local specialities) were closed. This is due to the season, but also because this year already in September there were hardly any tourists anymore, so places closed earlier than the years before. In other years the season for tourism can last until end October as it is still warm enough to swim and sit in the sun to enjoy a coffee or have dinner outside. So being in these touristy areas I got used to take something to eat with me or call the restaurant I thought of having a break for lunch or dinner. That worked out pretty well.
Moving towards places where mostly locals are and tourism isn’t the main source of living, in Sinj in the hinterland of Split for example, chances are good to find at least one or two Konobas in town and sometimes even plenty of Cafes and Bars open until night. Going for a coffe is important in Croatia, at least once a day in the morning hours, but time is always good for a coffee. In Konoba Pojta in Sinj, a lovely little town with a quite high density in bars, cafes and fast food, I had the best dinner in 2 months travelling in Dalmatia. Besides 4 friendly locals, men of course (I did find it surprising how often there were bars full of smoke and people and the only woman present was standing behind the bar), I was the only guest, but I was welcome and even got a huge piece of Tiramisu for free! 🙂
Travelling is possible without many limitations, it of course follows the usual adaptations we are already used to, wearing a mask and waiting in line if the location is really small or full. I think I had to wait once and that was at the Jadrolinija office in Zadar, when I got a ferry ticket. For the rest most places are very empty, much emptier than usual, as people who still open their stores or restaurants can tell. National Parcs, Museums and some other main attractions were still open in October and November and even now that the restaurants and bars have to close until december 21st they remain open. It is empty though almost everywhere and it can be very quiet travelling alone and sitting in an empty restaurant, but luckily most Croatians I met were very open and friendly and with a bit more time than usually I enjoyed some nice conversations I would not have had on a busy summer eve.
Montenegro
Here in Herceg Novi, just like in the rest of the country, everything closes at 18:00 and there is a ban on leaving the house from 19:00 to 06:00. Many people use this last hour in the day to go for a walk, sit or stand in the streets to chat and take some deep breaths. Young girls preferably practice their rollerblading-skills it seem and it’s even the last hour to walk your dog. After one week here I hardly recognized any movement on the streets after 19:00, the city is shut down and there seems to be no movement at all outdoors. It surely is quite an encroachment in people’s lives not to be able to stay outside after 7pm, meet for drinks and dinner, to play or just hang out at the beach or park. Even the honking car parade celebrating the changes in parliament a few days ago stopped before 19:00. What might help is the pouring rain in the evening and at night that turns streets into rivers. So for now I didn’t recognize much frustration or anger, just a few complains but with the hope for change to come soon.
I first felt that the Corona-regulations affected me when I tried to enter Bosnia without test. I got stopped by the police and sent back to Croatia, plus I had to pay a fine. Maybe it was bad luck, maybe this is waht happens not only to me when trying to sneak aaround the regulations, but with a not too small car with a german license plate and a box on the roof it is hard for me not to be seen.
Policemen were friendly but clear and determined to get me back on the track where I came from, so I found my way to Dubrovnik instead of Mostar. Just when I had arrived I got the news that all cafes and restaurants will be shut two days later. A lock-down was planned until december 21st, so I had one day left to enjoy a nice lunch, coffee and dinner and I did so! I felt that the new regulations and the prior experinece of being kicked out of Bosnia left their traces and when knowing that prices for Corona-tests started at €220 I felt like my travel was going to end soon. I felt like I soon would hit closed borders and that my dream of reaching Istanbul was impossible to reach. Well, I might not get to Istanbul under current circumstances, but who knows, and I am certainly not as limited as I first felt. It is a matter of mindset how free I feel, especially in these times, and it is very clear, that there are regulations and rules that determine the way I move and where I can be at what time. This is something I do sometimes struggle with, but who doesn’t, and moving in countries where I don’t speak the language and I’m not familiar with habbits and ways of interacting I feel like crossing boundaries is not a very good idea. I guess it requires sensitivity and precaution to find out where the boundaries are and how much flexibility there is. For now I find it pretty relaxing to be home at 7pm, cook and listen to the rain from the couch in my cozy apartment.
Another feeling I had to confront was the question how welcome I am. There are hardly any travellers or tourists and I did ask myself if people might feel irritated by me, taking and living so much freedom while “the rest of the world” is in lock-down. This is my personal issue, I know, I do ask myself more often than others if I am welcome, although I only had positive experiences for now. This is a heritage of experinces in life where I didn’t feel like I belonged there and it surely is a heritage of soul-experinces, that took place way before me. For now I am very thankful to have had many welcoming and open-hearted, warm encounters.
So after reading reliable information about immigration and emigration in the countries between Croatia and Turkey I could draw a new, little mind-map of a possible route down south and where border-crossing requires a test. A Corona-test now seems to me like a visum and with it I should be able to reach Greece. Let’s see if this day will come 😉
Actual route and destinations
October 2020
Start in Munich, Germany
Erlerberg, Tirol, Austria
Graz and Steiermark, Austria
Zagreb
NP Plitvice Lakes
Zadar & around
Dugi Otok
Pag Island
NP Velebit & around
NP Krka, Skradin & Šibenik
Trogir & Čiovo
Split
Vis Island
November 2020
Vis Island
Split & its hinterland
Sinj and Maglaj Mountain
Planinarski dom Brezovac and Mount Dinara
Cetine Spring to Omiš
Omiš to Makarska
Brač
First attempt to go to Bosnia (BiH)
Dubrovnik
Leaving Croatia
December 2020
Herceg Novi
Bay of Kotor to Kotor
daytrip to Budva
crossing Lovćen National Parc to Cetinje and Nikšić
Žabljak
Tara Canyon and Mojkovac
Berane and Petnjica, countryside
Kolašin
via Podgorica to Plužine
crossing the border to Bosnia and Herzegovina (with negative PCR-test!)
Januar 2021
Sarajevo
Februar 2021
Sarajevo
Ruište (mountains near Mostar)
Mostar and daytrips to…
…Park prirode Hutovo blato
…Počitelj
…Međugorje
…Fortress of Herzog Stjepan Vukčić Kosača
…Vodopad Kravica (waterfall)
…Blagaj
…plateau at Podvelež
…skywalk above Mostar
via Jablanica to Ramsko jezero (lake Rama)
trying to reach Prokoško jezero (still too much snow) on the way to Travnik
Travnik
via Babanovac to Jajce on incredibly scenic and beautiful mountain routes (R413a and R413b)
Jajce and Plivsko jezero
dayride to Kulen Vakuf in Nacionalni park “Una”
On the road with Dre 